Soggiorna
In Genoa you do not need a car in the centre, and that is not the usual guidebook line: it is that the centre is not built to hold one. But the reason this page is worth reading is a different one, and it is the thing that catches everybody out on a first visit.
Genoa is vertical, and the map lies. Two points that look three hundred metres apart on your phone can be separated by a hundred and fifty steps, or by an escarpment with a public lift in the middle. Here public transport is not only about covering distance: it is about going up.
The uphill transport, the part that does not exist elsewhere
They are the city's speciality and they are part of public transport, run by AMT just like the buses. They are not tourist attractions with their own ticket desk: they are how people in Genoa get home.
| Line | What it is |
|---|---|
| Zecca-Righi funicular | From largo Zecca up to the heights of Righi |
| Sant'Anna funicular | Links the centre to the Sant'Anna district |
| Principe-Granarolo rack railway | Among the oldest in Italy, from 1901, still with its toothed rail |
| Public lifts | Twelve in all, serving the hill districts |
The best known is the Castelletto lift: an Art Nouveau installation from 1909 that climbs from piazza Portello to the Spianata Castelletto, 57 metres of ascent in 45 seconds. At the top there is one of the best views over the city's rooftops, and you get there without climbing a single step.
On tickets, the general rule: urban network tickets are valid on the Zecca-Righi funicular and on the rack railway, while the lifts and the Sant'Anna funicular have a ticket of their own. There is also a day pass covering the whole urban network, Navebus and the Genova-Casella railway included.
We do not print the fares, and in this case there is an extra reason: they changed recently. After a period in which the metro and the lifts were free for residents, paying came back, and more than one visitor has been caught out. Check the AMT website before you travel; it is the only check you need.
The metro
One line, eight stations: Brin, Dinegro, Principe, Darsena, San Giorgio, Sarzano/Sant'Agostino, De Ferrari, Brignole.
For a visitor, five of them matter:
- Principe — the western railway station
- Darsena — the Galata maritime museum
- San Giorgio — the Porto Antico and the Aquarium
- De Ferrari — the centre, the Rolli palaces, the opera house
- Brignole — the other railway station, and the gateway to the eastern side
With those five stops you cover practically everything you come to Genoa for.
The urban trains
They are how you move along the coast, and heading east they are quicker than the bus: from Principe and Brignole you reach Sturla, Quarto, Quinto and Nervi, which is the day out you take without leaving the city boundary.
Before you board, check you have the right ticket: the AMT urban network and the train are two different things and not every ticket is valid on both.
The Navebus
It is the sea link between Pegli and the Porto Antico, under thirty minutes passing in front of Sampierdarena, Cornigliano and Sestri Ponente. It exists as a commuter service, but it is also the finest way to see the city's sea frontage, which from land you do not see at all.
In winter the sailings are cut back sharply.
The Genova-Casella railway
It is the historic line climbing into the hinterland, and it is usually one of the recommendations for a different half day.
At the moment, however, the service is being run entirely with replacement buses, for works on the line. It is worth checking how things stand before building a day around the little train: going up by bus is another matter.
On foot, and why you should know in advance
The old town is visited on foot and there is no other sensible way: it is the largest maze of carruggi in Europe and cars simply do not fit inside it.
But the warning at the top holds. When you plan a walk outside the flat centre, look at the height gain and not the distance: in Genoa the climb is the variable that decides whether a walk takes ten minutes or forty.
Where to stay to avoid using a car
- Principe — handy for the train and the port
- Brignole — centre and the eastern side
- Old town — everything on foot, but no parking and restricted access
- Nervi — sea and train, twenty minutes from the centre
- The hills — the view, in exchange for depending on funiculars and lifts
The places to stay in Genoa on this site are in the centre, and you contact them directly.
Frequently asked questions
Do you need a car to visit Genoa?
No, and in the centre it is an obstacle: the old town is the largest maze of carruggi in Europe and cars do not fit. Between the metro, urban trains, funiculars and lifts you can reach everything.
How many stops does the Genoa metro have?
Eight, on a single line: Brin, Dinegro, Principe, Darsena, San Giorgio, Sarzano/Sant'Agostino, De Ferrari and Brignole. For a visitor the useful ones are Principe, Darsena, San Giorgio, De Ferrari and Brignole.
Is the metro ticket valid on the lifts too?
Not automatically. Urban network tickets are valid on the Zecca-Righi funicular and the Granarolo rack railway, while the lifts and the Sant'Anna funicular have their own ticket. Fares changed recently: it is worth checking on the AMT website.
How do you get to Nervi from central Genoa?
By urban train from Principe or Brignole: it is quicker than the bus and it drops you practically on the promenade.
Is the Genova-Casella train running?
At the moment the service is being run entirely with replacement buses, for works on the line. Before building a day around the historic train, it is worth checking that it is back in service.
How long does the Navebus take from Porto Antico to Pegli?
Under thirty minutes by sea, passing in front of Sampierdarena, Cornigliano and Sestri Ponente. In winter the sailings are reduced.