Soggiorna![8557 P.Z. Spezia, Portovenere (seen from Palmaria island). Photochrom print by Photoglob Zürich, between 1890 and 1900.
From the Photochrom Prints Collection at the Library of Congress
More photochroms from Italy | More photochrom prints
[PD] This picture is in the public domain.](/en/uploads/library/41a7958a91014a4ebd1d8512b22e5928.webp)
Let us immediately clarify the point that angers those who book blindly: there are no beaches in La Spezia city.
This is not an urban planning oversight. The city's waterfront is occupied by the commercial port and the military arsenal — which is precisely why the city exists. Where other places have sand, here there are docks.
The good news is that the gulf is full of beaches, and La Spezia is the best base from which to reach them. But you do need to travel to get there.
Where they actually are
The Gulf of La Spezia — known as the Gulf of Poets since 1910 — has two shores, and the beaches are located on both sides.
To the east: Lerici and San Terenzo. This is the shore most frequented by Italians, featuring equipped and free beaches, along with two villages that are worth visiting in their own right. San Terenzo is the village where Shelley lived and where, in 1910, the phrase was coined that gave the gulf its name.
To the west: Portovenere and Palmaria Island. More rock than sand, better water quality, and a village that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site alongside the Cinque Terre. We discuss this in detail in Portovenere and Palmaria Island.
Outside the gulf: The Cinque Terre. Monterosso is the only one of the five villages with a proper beach of normal size. The others have coves and rocks.
How to get there without a car
This is the aspect that makes La Spezia convenient rather than inconvenient.
- By boat. You can cross the gulf by sea, which is the most beautiful way to reach Lerici or Portovenere: you see the coast from the outside, which is how it is meant to be seen.
- By bus. The shores of the gulf are served by urban and extra-urban lines.
- By train. For the Cinque Terre, there is no debate: you depart from La Spezia station. Details are found in Cinque Terre by train.
Schedules, fares, and seasonal availability change, so we do not list them here: they must be checked the day before, because boats in particular follow the calendar and weather conditions.
One important difference that often goes unmentioned: buses run all year round, boats do not. Outside the season, the gulf is crossed overland, with different travel times. Anyone planning a day trip to Portovenere in April or October must verify this before setting off, not on the morning itself at the pier.
What this means for choosing where to stay
It is worth thinking about this before booking, as the choice is real.
Staying in La Spezia suits those who will use trains: the station is in the city, you can leave early for the Cinque Terre, and prices reflect a real city rather than a tourist village. In exchange, in the evening, you are in a port city rather than facing the sea.
Staying in Lerici or Portovenere suits those who want the sea right outside their door and accept relying on buses and boats for everything else.
There is no single right answer: there is only the one consistent with how you plan to spend your days. An overview of the city is available in La Spezia: the complete guide.
What NOT to expect
There is no seaside promenade in the city. There is a walkway along the port, which is something else entirely: beautiful, but with ships in front of you.
The gulf is not open sea. It is a closed gulf heavily trafficked by ferries, boats, and military vessels. The best water is found to the west, towards Portovenere, and outside the gulf.
The beaches are not just around the corner. Even the nearest one requires transport. Those who want to wake up and go straight to the beach should stay elsewhere — and Lerici is the first place to consider.
Frequently asked questions
Are there beaches in La Spezia?
No, not within the municipality of La Spezia: the city's waterfront is occupied by the commercial port and the military arsenal. The gulf's beaches are in other municipalities — Lerici, San Terenzo, Portovenere — and in the Cinque Terre.
Which beach is closest to La Spezia?
Those on the eastern shore, towards Lerici and San Terenzo, are the easiest to reach by bus. By boat, you can go to both Lerici and Portovenere.
How do you reach the gulf's beaches without a car?
By boat crossing the gulf, by bus along the two shores, and by train for the Cinque Terre. Schedules and seasonal availability change, and boats in particular depend on the calendar and weather.
Is it better to stay in La Spezia or by the sea?
It depends on your daily plans: La Spezia suits those using trains for the Cinque Terre who want city prices; Lerici or Portovenere suit those who want the sea nearby and accept relying on buses and boats.
Where is the best water in the gulf?
Towards the west, on the side of Portovenere and Palmaria Island, where the coast is rocky. The gulf is closed and heavily trafficked, and the difference is noticeable.