SoggiornaTrail 531 is the old way between Riomaggiore and Manarola, the one people used before the Via dell'Amore: a kilometre and a half, 200 metres of ascent and about an hour. The National Park rates it for experienced hikers, (EE): it is steep, with long stairways.
From Riomaggiore station you climb Via Signorini and turn left into Via Tracastello, towards the valley of the Rio Finale. The path follows the vegetable gardens to a small bridge, where the long stairway begins, between cultivated and abandoned fields.
At the top, on the Costa Corniolo ridge, you can see Punta Montenero to the east and Manarola with the Cinque Terre coast to the west. Then you head down to the left towards Manarola on an old stairway, partly stone-built and partly cut into the rock.