Chiavari is the "real" town of the Tigullio: less of a postcard than Portofino and Santa Margherita, but with one of the finest arcaded old towns in Liguria and an everyday life that makes it pleasant in any season.
The arcades of the carruggio dritto
The heart of Chiavari is via Martiri della Liberazione, the "carruggio dritto" — the straight lane: a long medieval street entirely lined with arcades, where historic shops, cafés and stores follow one another under the black slate porticoes. It is the town's drawing room, and it works even on rainy days — a rare advantage on this coast.
Squares, churches and the market
Around the carruggio open piazza Mazzini with its market, the cathedral of Nostra Signora dell'Orto with its imposing portico, and the palazzi that tell the story of Chiavari's seafaring middle class. The weekly market and the daily fruit-and-vegetable market are the best way to understand the town.
Seafront and beach
Chiavari has its sea too: a town beach and a promenade looking out over the gulf, with the marina to the east. It is not a beach for a pure seaside holiday, but it rounds off a day's visit nicely.
Around Chiavari
From Chiavari you can head up into the Val Fontanabuona, or reach Sestri Levante and the rest of the eastern Riviera in a few minutes by train; the hills inland offer villages and panoramic sanctuaries for anyone with half a day to spare.
Frequently asked questions
How much time do you need for Chiavari?
Half a day for the centre and the arcades; a full day if you add the sea or the hinterland.
Can you reach Chiavari by train?
Yes, the station on the Genoa–La Spezia line is a few steps from the old town.
Is it worth it in the rain?
Yes: the arcades cover much of the centre, and it is one of the few Ligurian visits that works perfectly in bad weather.
