Soggiorna
A village at the river mouth, loved by writers
Bocca di Magra is a hamlet of Ameglia, nestled where the Magra River meets the sea, at the far eastern end of Liguria, bordering Tuscany. The village, which grew around a small river and maritime port, became a refuge for Italian writers and intellectuals (including Vittorio Sereni and Elio Vittorini, who set part of his life here) in the post-war period, attracted by the tranquility of the place compared to the more fashionable tourist centers along the coast.
The river and the sea
The uniqueness of Bocca di Magra lies in the coexistence of river life — boats moored along the banks of the Magra, typical of river mouth towns — and the beaches along the open sea, which stretch towards Marinella di Sarzana. The river itself, navigable for a stretch, is a destination for boat trips into the inland Val di Magra.
Montemarcello
Above Bocca di Magra stands Montemarcello, a village of Roman origin on a panoramic promontory within the Montemarcello-Magra-Vara Regional Natural Park, with views ranging from the Gulf of Poets to the Tuscan coast: a great spot for a scenic walk after visiting the seaside village.
How to get there
Bocca di Magra can be reached by car or bus from Sarzana, which has its own train station on the La Spezia–Pisa line; during the summer months, boat connections along the Gulf of Poets are often available.
Before you go
How long you need. The village and the walk along the river take a couple of hours. Adding Montemarcello and a stop at the beach easily fills the day.
When to go. Summer is the season when the village is at its liveliest and when the boat connections run, but it is also the most crowded. In spring and autumn it remains pleasant for the riverside walk and for Montemarcello, though many services are reduced or closed.
Accessibility. The harbour area and the riverbank are flat and easy. Montemarcello is quite another matter: it sits on a promontory reached by car, with a stone old town of narrow alleys and changes in level.
If it rains. This is an outdoor destination made of river, beaches and views: in bad weather it offers little, and it is better to postpone or move towards Sarzana, whose old town is more sheltered.
To check before you leave: whether and when the Gulf of Poets boats are running, as they are seasonal and not guaranteed; bus times from Sarzana; parking availability and rules in summer, when the river mouth area fills up; beach conditions and access for the current season.